Welcoming Gods and Spirits in Bali

    It was with good fortune that our second trip to Bali this year coincided with the most important religious feast for Balinese Hindus, the Galungan Festival. It's a celebration to honor the Creator of the universe and the spirits of their ancestors. They believe that this is the time of the year when spirits of ancestors visit the earth. 

        It's probably like All Soul's Day celebrated by Christians. Galungan festival, however, is more colorful and deeply rooted with religious rituals.

      The day begins with Balinese folks preparing bountiful offerings of food and flowers for their ancestral spirits. You will see women carrying offerings of food piled up high on ornately gilded trays over their heads.

The central chamber

      The offerings are brought to the community temple where they are neatly arranged with the rest around a central chamber.

Check out the prawns....

and the sausages!

      We decided to join in the celebration by going to a traditional village in Ubud, a town in central Bali. There we were greeted by a trove of natives on their way to the village temple.

      Being there felt like watching an old movie about an enchanted island in the Pacific. I felt like I stepped back in time as I became part of a thousand year-old tradition. Except that, I was witnessing this event in the 21st century!

Older women on their way to the village temple with their offerings.

Young Balinese girls in their traditional dress with their offerings.

Most Balinese men wore white shirt with head dress called "udeng" to the ceremony.

Even these young Balinese boys were very involved in the ceremony.

   

     Everyone in the village, every man, woman and child,  all congregated towards the temple that day where the ceremony was to be performed.   They entered the temple gate in batches.  We watched them curiously as they jostled their way towards the center of this festivity.

Balinese worshipers entering the temple gate.

      Inside the temple gate,  worshipers occupied their own space where they sat down for communal prayer. The ceremony proper lasted for less than 20 minutes.  After which, another set of worshipers entered the sacred gates.

Praying inside the sacred grounds of the temple

      It's hard to describe how I felt witnessing a totally different religious belief.   But I felt very blessed to have witnessed a unique culture and religion here in Bali, Indonesia.

Sunset at Tanah Lot Temple

      I guess it's what makes Bali a truly enchanting paradise!


Photos by:  Caloy and Marlo Roxas
September 8, 2012


   

Bali: Quest for a Vanishing Culture

One hot April morning of 2012, my husband and I decided to take a wild adventure to the hinterlands of Bali in Indonesia. We were on a quest for a “vanishing culture” that I needed as an entry for a photo club competition. Our Balinese driver, Wayan, suggested we visit his village which was two hours away from the central city of Denpasar. The village was in a remote mountain region where only a few tourists tread. There we met some of the most fascinating people we have ever encountered. It felt like being inside the story “Jungle Book.” It was a surreal experience.




On our way to the village of Alas Pujung, we chanced upon several Balinese women in their traditional garb, balancing heavy load on their steady heads. It appears to be their natural way of life, a far cry from the modern women we see in cities today.



As we reached the village, it felt like stepping back in time. The place felt untouched by civilization. The villagers were still able to preserve much of their ancestor's culture and tradition. We saw women weaving baskets or carving wood. We passed by men preening their fighting cocks.





We sheepishly watched a maiden wash herself in a communal bath.















And passed by menfolks cleaning chicken for ceremonial offering.

We got to meet very interesting people. Many are old folks whose faces caught my photographer's eyes.




Some were children who seemed fascinated seeing themselves in my camera's LCD.



We were introduced to Wayan's parents. The mother seemed very demure while the father was jolly and loquacious. He was so excited to entertain us. He kept gibbering in his native dialect which we, of course, couldn't understand.







We also had the privilege of being invited to a ceremonial preparation. Ceremonies and offerings are normal way of life of Balinese folks. A home was about to be renovated. Hence, prior to construction, the villagers gather together for ceremonial offering. As a sign of welcome, they offered us rice cake and their famous Kintamani coffee.







But the highlight of our journey was meeting an indigenous couple who seemed to be untouched by time. They were barebreasted, just like their ancestors of a forgotten era. We came with five kilos of rice for them which they accepted warmly. They live by themselves in a traditional Balinese home with a temple inside their small courtyard. They gamely allowed me to take photographs of them in their natural environment.



Caught my husband Carlos stealing a shot from behind. A non-photographer, he definitely also enjoyed this photo safari.
We returned to Manila feeling exhilarated from our unique adventure. It was indeed an experience locked in our hearts and mind. Finally, I have found my entry for a "vanishing culture." And as an added bonus, I met some of the most wonderful people this side of the globe. Many thanks to the folks of Alas Pujung, Bali, Indonesia.

Vietnam Golf Tour

It was totally unexpected. I was flabbergasted and humbled at the same time. As my name was called to receive the championship trophy at the hotel café of The Intercontinental in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, I could not believe my ears. I stood up from my chair feeling a bit embarrassed yet proud of my feat. Embarrassed since earning the championship title for the three-days match was totally unanticipated. I felt there were formidable and lower handicapped players with me during the event. Yet proud since I emerged the unlikely winner!

When I learned that my husband and I were going to Vietnam for our annual international golf tournament, I was both excited and anxious. Excited since I was going to play again in foreign soil; yet anxious because I had to contend with 23 other golfers. Not that I have a competitive streak. It was just that I didn’t like embarrassing myself with a poor game. Good thing, my excitement got the better of me.

We left for Vietnam last November 15, 2009 via Philippine Airlines. The golf tour took us to two cities in a span of five days. My husband and I were with ten other Filipino golfers. We made up the Filipino team who yearly competed with our golf counterparts from Hong Kong.

With my husband Caloy. Ready for 3 days of golf in Vietnam

It was an arduous journey. We flew to Dalat for the first leg of the three-days match the day we arrived Ho Chi Minh. Since we had to wait for five hours for the next flight to Dalat, our Filipino group saw it wise to tour the capital.

Going around Ho Chi Minh was a bit of a challenge because of the congested traffic and hundreds of motorcycles angling for space in the crowded and narrow roads. There were people wearing the ubiquitous conical hats Vietnamese are known for. I saw men squatting on the sides of the pavement, exchanging talks with their compatriots. There were vendors peddling their ware on two bamboo baskets balanced on a stick across their shoulders. Their commercial buildings were built side by side, cramped together in small spaces, built three or four stories high. There were neither big shopping centers nor impressive corporate headquarters. I was surprised, though, to see a Jollibee store at the center of the city. Many of the structures were old and French inspired. Ho Chi Minh (Saigon as it was formerly known) was after all a French colony before the Vietnam War.

We passed by several tourist spots in the city like the Reunification Palace, the huge Central Post Office, War Remnants Museum, beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral and Binh Tay Market. I found nothing extraordinary about the city. Maybe I needed more days to immerse myself with the country’s culture and society. I vehemently disagree with some political analyst in my country who suggested that Vietnam had outpaced the Philippines economically. As far as I have seen, at least in terms of infrastructure, Vietnam has still a long, long way to go.

The beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral

The famous among tourist: Binh Tay Market

We arrived Dalat the evening of our arrival in Vietnam. We stayed in the French-inspired Sofitel Dalat Palace which was located at the heart of city. It had a breathtaking view of the lake and city. We were awed as we entered its imposing doors. It had a 1920's style and charm to it. I read that Hotel Sofitel Dalat Palace is one of the most beautiful and amongst the few remaining historical hotels in Southeast Asia. It was built in 1922 & restored in 1995, meticulously to its original grandeur. Our room had a princess-inspired bed and a colonial-style bathroom.

Sofitel Dalat Palace Hotel

We played in Dalat Palace Golf Club for 2 days. Dalat is a charming city in the central highlands of Vietnam. It is a breath of fresh air after the mayhem and humidity of Ho Chi Minh City. In fact, Dalat reminds me so much of the Baguio City of my youth. Baguio is the summer capital of the Philippines situated in the Mountain Province. It is known for its crisp, cool air and beautiful mountain surroundings. But personally, I think Dalat is way more beautiful than Baguio is now. It is the favorite vacation spot of native Vietnamese who are looking for rest and recreation in a cool spot. Pine trees abound in its hilly slope and a large lake sits at the center of the city.

First day of golf with Anki of Sweden and Lyn Sembrano in Dalat Palace Golf Club

My flight mates on the 2nd day of the golf tour: John of Sweden, Loida from Hong Kong and Rob Chien;

At the Dalat Palace Golf Club

On the third day, we went back to Ho Chi Minh and played at Long Thanh Golf Club. It was a remarkably beautiful course, with well-manicured greens, rolling fairways, high-lipped bunkers and water hazards. It was of international standards, which really surprised me. Playing there felt like you were in some western country, not Vietnam.

At the Long Thanh Golf Club in Ho Chi Minh;

With Lilian Selenius and Sharon Evans of the Hong Kong Team; and Tami Leung

Too bad we had a short stay in Vietnam. I know there is much to see and do. However, this Vietnam visit of mine will always be among my bucket of pleasant memories. Playing in a foreign land…. marvelous! Winning a 3 days golf tournament, unforgettable!!!!

Receiving my trophy from Nelson Leung. What a way to end a golf tour!!!

Weekend Escapade in Tagaytay/Anilao

As the Britney Spears song goes “Oops, I did it again!”, I was back in Anilao last June 6, 2010, diving to my heart’s content. This was my 3rd visit to Anilao in less than a month. I didn’t really think I would be back that soon. However, fate had it for my family and I to once again commune with mother nature.

My husband’s older brother Ric was in the country for a short visit with his family. We decided to take them out of town for some rest and recreation. Upon learning that Caloy and I just got certified as divers, Ric’s children, Patrick and Anne, wanted to give it a try. We suggested an overnight stay in Canyon Woods, which is a resort community on the way to Anilao; followed by a day trip to Dive and Trek the next morning.

My boys, Matt, Andrew and Timothy, were very excited to be with their cousins again. The five of them grew up together in Fairview where our ancestral home was. Ric and his wife Ofel decided to migrate to the United States some six years back. My children last saw them when we visited the US in 2006. That weekend in Canyon Woods and Anilao was a chance for all of us to reminisce our past and catch up with the present.

The Roxas families in Canyon Woods

We started our weekend escapade with a golf game in Canyon Woods. What would normally take us two hours to finish a nine-hole game took us five hours! There were six of us in one flight – Caloy, Matthew and I; Ric, Ofel and Patrick. Since it was just a leisurely game, we took time practicing each shot. I was actually surprised that Ric and Ofel took a liking to this unforgiving sport. It was fun playing with them, trying to conquer the narrow and exquisitely challenging course of Canyon Woods. I took it as an opportunity to practice my swing since the following Monday was my competition with the Women Golf Association of the Philippines.

Matt, with his Tito Ric, about to make his putt

It took us 5 hours to finish 9 holes!!!

We took off for Anilao early the following morning. I was astonished with the milieu of divers, both foreign and local, that day in Dive and Trek Resort. Apparently, there exists a diving community I am not privy of until recently. I should not be surprised though since the Philippines is known for its beautiful reefs and aquatic resources. That moment, I felt privileged to be among the few who can witness one of nature’s hidden spectacles.

Our boat ride to Dive and Trek in Anilao

While Patrick and Anne waited for their turn for their introductory dive, Caloy and I got immediately dressed in our wetsuits for that dip in the ocean. I was amazed how at ease I was, exhilarated by the chance for another underwater dive. I remember just last week during our check out, I almost gave up because of fear. I just emptied my mind with negative thoughts and took to the water like a fish.

Patrick and Anne doing introductory dive lessons while everyone listened.

My first dive that morning was interesting. I saw the usual parrotfish, angelfish, dory and other tropical fishes circling around me. There were all sorts of marine creature in various colors. They had the best color combination a fashion designer would be envy of. Some of the more unusual ones I saw were the lionfish, trumpet fish, and giant clams. The clams came in different shapes. Their lips were of different colors, too. There was one in deep violet with a sprinkling of white luminous dots. Other clams were bluish while others were bland. Some were opening and closing their gigantic mouths while others were spewing some dust clouds. There was even a blowfish or butete resting in a magnolia-like coral. It was captivating! What was different about this dive was the sight of several divers under the ocean with me. I felt like an intruder, together with them, in this sublime environment.


Diving really takes some practice. By my second dive, I already set a goal in mind. In my previous dives, I was just following the lead of the dive master. This time, I knew what I wanted to see. So Conrad, our dive master, took my husband and I down 70 feet to see the Grotto, Bat Cave and Basilica dive sites, as I suggested. During this dive, I felt very relaxed and in control. Equalization was a breeze and adjusting my buoyancy was child play.

Caloy feeding the fishes with breadcrumbs

While we were swimming with the fishes, my boys and Ric’s family enjoyed snorkeling under the leaden sky and playing with Bogart, the resort's Golden Retriever. Ric thought my husband Caloy was joking when he said that Bogart could dive under the ocean to retrieve a tossed bottle of coke. It was actually the resort manager, Alex, who threw the bottle to the ocean to show-off Bogart's unique talent. The kids had a heyday watching Bogart pull off his stunt.

Timothy, Anne and Austin

Andrew and Anne clowning around

Matt and Patrick, pooped from the day's activities

The current was getting stronger that afternoon since the southwest wind or hanging habagat had arrived. We finally called it a day and by 5:30 pm, our banca brought us back to land. That boat ride back was an experience by itself. The waves were rough, slapping our boat with its hefty hand. Our banca was carried by the turbulent waves, lifting it up then pulling it down over and over again like a giant roller coaster ride. I sat beside the boatman who was maneuvering our banca. I saw how relaxed he was despite the whopping waves. I decided we were in safe hands.

The cousins

We all had fun!

We headed for home by 6 pm; had a bountiful Filipino dinner at Bali Resort in Tagaytay; and reached our unit at The Fort by past 10.

It was a great weekend escapade. We enjoyed the company of Ric and Ofel, Patrick and Anne; the sumptuous food, the leisurely golf game and the relaxing dive. What else could we ask for! As Louie Armstrong would sing, “What a wonderful world!”