Sagada: A Mountain Province Adventure

It appeared to me like a scene in the movies where trekkers brave the scorching heat and hostile environment for the proverbial lost treasure. It was riveting, unsuspecting and action-filled. Except that it was a real life adventure set in a secluded mountain village. I, together with nine members of my family, left the comfort of city life to travel 12 hours “off the beaten road” for a two nights of adrenalin rushing adventure.

Sagada is a charming village nestled 5000 feet above sea level in the far reaching area of the Mountain Province. It is 7 hours away from Baguio City by car. Half the trip is spent on rough, rugged terrain. But amidst the unpaved road lies the natural beauty of the Cordilleras. On the way there, one gets to marvel at the scenic view from the highest highway in the country, some 7400 feet above sea level. Terraces of planted vegetation abound as though carved by the indigenous gods. One can get captivated by the flowing river where children frolic while their water buffaloes wade beside them.

I have read about Sagada from few magazine articles. But one does not read about a place. One must experience the place. And that was what Sagada was like for me. It was not for sightseeing, as my hubby would say. It was for every adventure seeker on a quest for that pure exhilarating experience.

Our first stop in Sagada was Sumaging Cave. Nothing prepared us for this. We were guided by Fabian, a local native who must have ventured inside the cave a thousand times. But he did not warn us of the nature of the cave. We followed his every step, guided only by the glowing lamp in his hands. A few minutes down the cavern, we realized the danger we were in. There was no turning back.

I have been to remarkable caves in the past. The caves in Guilin, China totally took my breath away. Considering that Mainland China is ancient, the caves must have been there for a billion years. I was also fortunate to venture inside Jenolan Cave in Sydney, Australia. Inside the dark, cool chambers, I felt like I was walking back in time. The stalactites and stalagmites told a story of patience and endurance in carving each rock formation to its present glory.

But what makes Sumaging Cave in Sagada so much different from Guilin and Jenolan Caves is its natural setting. Those in China and Sydney have been tampered by the human hands. There were colored lights in each chamber to enhance its natural beauty. The paths were paved and railings were in place to secure each traveler. Hands don’t get dirty nor shirts get wet. It was just like passing through a natural museum.

Sumaging Cave is of a different class. One will find similar stalactites and stalagmites, cathedral ceilings, and various limestone formations that looked like anything your mind can imagine. But what makes it unique is its raw appeal. It is more for those daring adrenalin-junkies. The minute we entered its huge mouth and gazed at the darkness within, we sensed danger lurking in. Unwittingly, we were about to do real-life spelunking.

Once inside the cave, we got down on our knees and hands, traversing the narrow and jagged path. Every now and then we would stop to catch our breath and marvel at the different rock formations. Sumaging prides to have its own rice terraces carved in limestone perhaps thousands of years ago. We crawled down the steep terrain, stooped up and climbed over slippery rocks. We used our hands and bodies to guide our way into the deep crevices. On the way back to the surface, we rappelled over a steep cliff. I didn’t care of the bat poo in my hands. All I could think of is surviving every moment. I had a mixed feeling of exhilaration and fear. I had to wrestle any thoughts of danger.

Kudos to my dad who at 74 never thought that he could survive such an ordeal. It was a test of will power, physical prowess and the positive mental attitude of “Yes, I can.” I was fearful for him and my mom, mindful of their every step. They indeed were able to prove that age is just a frame of mind.

Once outside the cave, we all gave a sigh of relief! The once fast beating heart slowed down; our restless minds remained calmed; and our tensed bodies relaxed. At last we can say that we have survived and conquered Sumaging Cave!

The Mountain Province is known worldwide for its beautiful rice terraces. On our second day, we got the opportunity to walk along its path and marvel at the hands who built it. We traversed its well irrigated path on the way to the Big Falls. Again, we didn’t know what we were getting into. We relied on the advice of our guide not knowing that it was a 4 hour hike going to and fro. We felt like we were on a quest for the Holy Grail. Forming a straight line, we queued our way down 1670 steps of cemented stairs; across the vivid greens of the rice terraces and cool, refreshing natural springs. All these under the blazing heat of the summer sun.

Halfway through our hike to the Falls, we passed an authentic tribal village. One will notice the men folk seated together around a stone furnace. We were told by our guide that this is where they discuss the day’s events, plans and politics. The women, on the other hand, were clustered in small groups. Some were carrying their young in blankets wrapped around their bodies. The native houses made on stilts and nipas were no longer to be found. Instead, they were replaced by wooden houses with iron roofing. A sign that western civilization has invaded their once primal culture.

The view was magnificent everywhere my eyes gazed but most especially upon reaching the Falls. Its long veil of cascading waters was a welcome sight! We were greeted by young boys offering their tiny hands to massage our sore bodies. After perhaps an hour of rest and skinny-dipping, it was another 2 hour hike back on the same route. Not withstanding the strenuous walk under the scorching heat of the sun, we totally enjoyed that experience!

Of course, our Sagada adventure will not be complete without a visit to the hanging coffins at Echo Valley. The natives of the past believed that their dead would reach heaven faster if their coffins were hanged rather than buried underneath the ground. Today, that ritual is no longer practiced though this ancient custom has been a blessing now to its town. The burial caves and hanging coffins lure thousands of visitors each year to see this oddity.

There are more to see and do in Sagada. However, we were either pressed for time or too tired to walk many miles again. My mountain adventure in Sagada made me realize one thing: how beautiful my country is! As I gazed up the starry skies on my first night in Sagada, there appeared before me a shooting star! I closed my eyes and made a wish. I know I’ll be back again.

Marlo Roxas

April 2007