“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure.
There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.”


Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Bali Through My Eyes

Bali, at least for me, conjured up images of a tropical paradise with coconut trees swaying in the breeze; terraced rice paddies going way up the sides of the mountains; active volcanoes spewing fiery smoke up in the air; white beach with half-nude maidens bathing under the seething sun; magnificent mountain scenery viewable from narrow, winding roads; and flowering bushes everywhere. I imagined it a peaceful and serene place where one could meditate all day; a refuge for a weary soul waiting to be recharged from the chaos of modern civilization.


I wasn't disappointed when I visited this enchanted island in 2007. It was all I have imagined except for a few misses. There were no half-nude native women any longer. With the myriad of tourists and the onset of modern civilization, the women started putting on clothes to cover their tops. Kuta beach, the famous long stretch of white sand in Bali overlooking the Indian Ocean, was not that white as I imagined. The sands of Boracay is more enticing and alluring. As for peace and order, it is still wanting considering the infamous Bali bombing just few years past.


My parents in front of the Bali Bombing memorial shrine in Denpasar


Denpasar, the capital of Bali, is a bustling town with street vendors hawking their ware everywhere and motorcycles lording it like kings on the narrow roads. The main thoroughfare is lined with boutiques and galleries, all grabbing the attention of tourists. Bali could well be just an ordinary tropical paradise except that it has a unique culture and tradition that fascinates adventure-seekers like me.


The Rituals and Traditions


Most Balinese are Hindus and sacrifices are an important part of their religion. Every Balinese makes at least three times a day sacrifices to honor the spirits. I saw offering baskets of fruits or flowers everywhere: in the streets, inside the hotel, in front of a store; and even in McDonalds. Hindu women and girls, dressed in beautiful sarongs, bring offerings in baskets that they carry on their heads to the temple. Ritual ceremonies are big part of every day life of the Balinese. Aside from the usual birthdays, wedding and cremation ceremonies, they have life cycles ceremonies like seventh month pregnancy rite, 47th day rite, third month rite, among others. They even have dental filling rite!!!


An offering basket of flowers and fruits


Balinese making offerings to the spirits


I was really fascinated to learn about Balinese culture. It was totally a new paradigm for me. I was told that there still existed a caste system in the island. Hinduism has four castes: Brahmans, the highest caste; Warriors, Merchants and finally Farmers, who are the lowest. Knowing this made me glad I was not born here.


A native garbed in traditional clothes


They also have an interesting way of giving names. In Balinese culture, if you are the first born ( male or female ) you will be called either Putu, Wayan or Nengah. Second born will be called Made or Kadek. Third born Nyoman, Ika or Kamang, fourth born Ketut. If you are #5 you go back to 1. Isn’t that interesting? That takes care of having to remember names! Fascinating!


Balinese men on the way to a ceremony


Our Villa


We arrived in Bali the day after Christmas, which also happened to be my 20th wedding anniversary. I was with my husband and kids, parents, my husband's sister and her family and other special love ones. The adults in our group were billeted in a luxurious garden villa in Jimbaran while the young ones chose to stay in a boutique hotel beside the beach.



What makes Bali enchanting for me are their villas. Ours was patterned after a typical Balinese home made of teak and coconut thatches over the roof. The bedrooms, kitchen, dining room and living room are separate structures within the compound. We had our own pool at the center of the villa surrounded by a lush and well-manicured garden.



And boy did I love the bathrooms! Our garden bathroom was fitted with an oversize bath tub sprinkled with rose petals, an outdoor rain shower, double washbasins and a toilet. It was in a pebbled courtyard planted with green foliage surrounded by walls for total privacy. Awesome!




River Rafting

There are a hundred things to do in Bali. We chose to start with an adrenalin rushing activity - white water rafting! We proceeded to the Ayung River in Ubud where the adventure began. We traversed the river stream overcoming several rapids along our path. We were dazzled by the natural landscape of our surroundings. We even passed a Hindu artwork intricately carved on the rocks along the river bank.

We had a wonderful time water rafting along the Ayung River!


This work of art is engraved in stone along the Ayung River

Ubud

Ubud was my favorite spot in Bali. It is located in the middle of the island. Being the center of art, music and dance, it is an artist's paradise. Here you will find all sorts of tourists - shabby backpackers, new agers, artists, bohemians and curious tourists like us. Ubud to me looks like a typical provincial municipality in my country with its narrow, unpaved roads, rice paddies, tropical trees and nipa houses. Except that, elegant five star hotels and sprawling villas abound. It is surrounded by scenic rice terraces, art galleries, ancient temples, jungle gorges, rivers and small villages. For me, Ubud is the best place to be for nature, adventure, culture and inspiration.


My husband and I purchased a Bali painting




A must do in Ubud is to see a cultural show. We watched the Legong dance performed in the courtyard of the ornately carved Ubud Palace. We caught the show just when the sun set in. Hence, the Palace became even more enchanting as it was lit only by fire. Now I understand where the classic musical South Pacific found the inspiration for the mythical island paradise of Bali Ha'i. Young Balinese dancers in shimmering traditional garb told stories from the Ramayana through their hand and eye movement. Men in demon or monkey costumes dance to the rhythm of the bamboo instruments with passion and vigor. The show was riveting and mesmerizing!


Hindu History

I was told that the whole of Indonesia was Hindu before it became the largest Muslim nation in the world in terms of population. When the Hindu Majapahit Empire in Java was in danger of succumbing to Muslim invasion, their artists, intellectuals, musicians and priest of the royal court all fled to Bali. There they established a colony until it flourished into a vibrant and colorful society that is Bali today.

Phallic symbol of Hindu god Vishu inside the Elephant Cave



We were able to visit a Hindu shrine called Goa Gajah that literally meant Elephant Cave. I was told that the Goa Gajah used to be a monastery for Hindu and Buddhist monks during ancient times. They would enter the cave and meditate for hours. The cave was dark, cold, cramp and creepy inside. The only thing I saw were phallic images which symbolized their god Vishu. I was really fascinated to learn about an entirely different belief system. So interesting!

Our group in front of the Elephant Cave



Batur Volcano

Indonesia is known as an active volcano belt. Hence, it's also a must see to visit one of its many volcanoes. We chose to visit Batur Mount Volcano located in Kintamani District. We went to a restaurant in Penelokan Village for the best view of the Batur Volcano and lake. I read that the volcano erupted several times already, the biggest in 1926 destroying the Batur Village. From our vantage point, the volcano seemed an arms reach away. It was so close to us.

Eat, Pray, Love


I read the book of Elizabeth Gilbert "Eat Pray Love" while on this Bali vacation. Under the chapter on "Pray," the author wrote about her encounter with a Bali medicine man. My niece Kristine persisted that we go visit him. My husband and I decided to have a foot reflexology instead (it was the best I ever had, I swear). My mom, son Andrew, nieces Kristine and Kaye, and sisters-in-law Bebot and Susan, went to see him. His name is Ketut Liyer. From the pictures they took, he was short and stocky, smiling through his ears and wearing an "I love NY" T-shirt. He read their fortunes (which took a fortune, I was told!) and tried to sell them his paintings. I guess he can ask for an enormous sum because he is now famous!

My niece Kristine having her fortune told by Ketut Liyer from "Eat Pray Love."



My mom, sister-in-law Susan, Andrew and Kaye with the Medicine Man


As I boarded my plane back to my homeland, I imagined Bloody Mary waving at me, beckoning me back while singing "Bali Ha'i." At last, I have fulfilled a childhood dream of being a part of this beautiful and enchanted island. I and the rest of my group definitely had the most wonderful and fascinating journey. I owe this trip to my husband's sister Bebot and her most generous husband Jojo. They were the most gracious host who made sure that we will have a most unforgettable vacation.


Our gracious hosts, Jojo and Bebot Marigomen


Drew, Kaye, Kristine, Bebot, Susan and Mama Trellie: Enjoying shopping in Ubud

Caloy with Balinese women


We had sooo much fun!!!

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